I got a 50W UV LED panel, because I wanted to do some resin castings and to be able to UV solder resist mask for circuit board repair. Unfortunately I ordered a 220V instead of 110v panel. I saw the seller didn’t have a panel with a US plug so I just ordered the one without plug, figuring I just add a US plug. I realized my mistake, when it arrived, because you can’t you can’t just put a 110v plug a 220v panel. The panel had 50 UV LEDs in a series, the voltage drop for a UV LED is around 3.5 volts, so it would take 175 volts to drive the LEDS in that configuration. But if I cut some traces and did some jumper wires, I could turn that into 2 strands of 25, the voltage drop across 25 LEDS is 87 volts, which could be run on 110V. The only thing was to increase the current to make up for the voltage drop. The panel uses these current regulator chips whose output is determined by the resistance on a reference pin. Big Clive did a video on them that was very helpful. I wound up drop...
I purchased a RAC-J500S arcade joystick to play some arcade games on Retro-Arch, I got the one with the Pac-Man art because my daughter liked it. The arcade stick comes ready to use and has ARC controller board that I can confirm works great on PC and Android, however there are problems with Android TV. The problems are in how Android TV maps the buttons of a USB controller, for some reason the buttons are mapped the same way as the remote controller. So one button on the arcade controller automatically opens Netflix, another YouTube, another Prime Video ... and so on. People has successfully gotten around this weirdness by using a button remapper app, unfortunately these conflicted with my other controller. When I purchased the Arcade stick I though it might be neat to make it wireless at some point in the future. Since apparently only wireless controllers work with Android TV I decided to go ahead swap out the controller board. I used a Nice!nano clone because the it's u...